🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.